Welcome To KenSeibert.Com Audio
Let's start with the bare board:
![](board1.jpg)
With this many small components I choose to use solder paste and a stencil. The boards can be assembled using a fine tip soldering iron, but I find it much easier to use the stencil. A stencil fits over the board and allows paste to be deposited on just the solder pads.
![](board2.jpg)
The paste is spread using a small piece of metal.
![](board3.jpg)
The solder deposited is the thickness of the stencil.
![](board4.jpg)
Components are placed on the board using fine tweezers - paying attention to the proper polarity of the diodes!
![](board5.jpg)
When comnplete, the board is baked in a small oven to melt the solder. There is a description HERE of how to do the baking process.
![](board6.jpg)
Once the board is cooled it is inspected then sprayed with a coating of insulating varnish. Since there are high voltages and the parts are so close, this is a prudent protective step. I am using the Sprayon Clear Insulating Varnish. It is about $5 for a good sized can. I get it from Zoro Tools
![](sprayon.jpg)
Once the varnish dries, the screw terminals are soldered on.
![](board7.jpg)
On the back of the board, the leads make sharp points which is corona arcing waiting to happen. I trim the leads close to the board, then retouch each joint with extra solder. This makes the solder joint a round dome instead of a sharp point. The roundness makes arcing much less likely.
![](board8.jpg)
The back of the board is then sprayed with the insulating varnish. This completes the assembly process.
![](finalboard.jpg)
If you are interested in purchasing these boards, either the bare board or a completed unit, send me an email. The bare boards are $10 each with completed and tested boards at $45 each. The completed boards are built to your voltage specifications.